How to Replace a PA or DJ Speaker Driver (10", 12", 15", 18")

A blown woofer does not mean you need a new cabinet. Replacing the driver is usually a 20-minute job with a screwdriver and a multimeter, as long as the new driver matches the old one in size, impedance and power. This guide walks through it.

1. Confirm the driver is actually blown

2. Measure the old driver

MeasurementWhy it matters
Nominal size (10", 12", 15", 18")Must match the cabinet cutout.
Bolt-hole circle and hole countLets you reuse the existing holes or T-nuts.
Mounting depthThe new magnet must clear the back panel and any bracing.
Impedance (ohms)Keeps the load on your amplifier safe.
RMS powerShould be equal to or higher than the old driver's RMS rating.

3. Match impedance and power the right way

Use the same impedance as the original. Putting a 4-ohm driver where an 8-ohm one was can overload the amplifier, and a 16-ohm driver will play noticeably quieter. In a cabinet with two or more drivers wired together, every replacement must match, or the total load changes (see our impedance and wiring guide).

Compare RMS (continuous) power, not peak or "max" figures. Peak numbers on spec sheets are short bursts and are not useful for matching an amplifier.

4. Full-range, woofer or guitar speaker?

5. Install and test

  1. Connect + to + and – to – (the red or marked terminal is positive). Reversed polarity on one driver in a multi-driver cabinet cancels bass.
  2. Seat the gasket so the frame seals against the baffle; air leaks cause whistling and weak bass.
  3. Tighten screws evenly in a star pattern, snug but not so tight that the frame warps.
  4. Play music at low volume, listen for rattles, then raise the level gradually.

Replacement drivers we carry

All are 5 Core drivers, shipped free to the lower 48 states and DC. Check each product page for full specifications before you order.

Related guides: Speaker wire gauge guide · Wiring twist-lock speaker connectors